The Lady Dior is an icon—given by France to Lady Diana in 1995, it became one of the most coveted… and most counterfeited bags in the world. Cannage quilting, charms, date code, hardware: every detail tells a story. Here are the 8 inspection points we apply at Le Comptoir Vintage before listing a Dior bag for sale, along with a size guide and date code decoder.
By Le Comptoir Vintage authentication expert team · Updated July 6, 2026
📋 The 8 Inspection Points
1The Cannage Quilting: Regularity and Relief
Cannage — this quilting inspired by the Napoleon III chairs on which Christian Dior fashion show guests sat — is the absolute signature of the house. On an authentic bag, the diamonds are regular, generously puffed, and perfectly aligned. The quilting is done by hand, and each diamond must have exactly the same dimensions.
Check two specific things: the pattern continues seamlessly at the side seams, and the diamonds remain symmetrical on both sides of the bag. On fakes, the Cannage is often flat, slightly irregular, or the pattern is abruptly cut at the seams — a flaw that a Dior workshop would never allow.
2How to Check the D·I·O·R Charms?
The charms hanging from the handle spell out the word D-I-O-R, one letter per charm. This is the most scrutinized detail. On an authentic bag, each letter is made of solid, heavy metal, sharp, with clean edges, and perfectly uniform thickness from one letter to another.
Specific inspection points:
✔️ Each charm is connected by a small welded ring, never a simple open hook
✔️ The metal has a real weight in hand and uniform gilding
✔️ The engraving (when present) is fine and clear
❌ Light, thin, poorly centered letters or flaking gilding = warning sign
3The Leather and Its Variations
Dior offers the Lady Dior in several materials, which must be recognized: lambskin, exceptionally soft; calfskin, more structured; patent leather, shiny and taut; and canvas (Oblique, micro-cannage). All are supple, dense, and emit a genuine leather smell.
The touch should be soft yet structured, never plastic-like or stiff. A rigid, overly shiny leather, with a chemical smell or too uniform a grain, indicates imitation or low-grade leather. On authentic lambskin, the natural pores of the leather are subtly visible.
4The Hardware: Engraving, Weight, and Finish
Rings, clasps, protective feet, and charms are made of heavy metal, with high-quality gilding, palladium, or ruthenium. A detail often overlooked by counterfeiters: the D-rings that hold the handle are frequently engraved "Dior" on the back. The engraving is precise, shallow, and regular.
The finish (gold, silver, ruthenium) must be uniform across all parts, including the charms. Flaking gilding, blurry or overly deep engraving, or hollow-sounding metal are warning signs.
5The Stitching and Edges
Dior stitching is fine, tight, and perfectly regular, with no loose threads or visible knots. Each Cannage diamond is outlined by a clean, continuous stitch, and the corners are impeccably tucked.
Also check the edges of the handles and sides: the finishing paint (the "edge varnish") must be smooth, regular, and without cracks. Irregular stitches, loose threads, or a crude edge betray a manufacturing process that is not that of the house.
6Where to Find the "Christian Dior" Stamp?
Inside, the stamp indicates "Christian Dior" and, below it, "MADE IN ITALY" (older pieces may bear "MADE IN FRANCE"). The font is elegant, fine, and regular, the stamping clear and delicate, never crudely debossed.
Golden rule: the color of the stamp must match the bag's hardware (gold stamp with gold hardware, silver with palladium hardware). An overly thick, misaligned font, or an inconsistent color are revealing signs.
7Where to Find and How to Read the Dior Date Code?
Dior bags carry a date code usually stamped on the back of the interior leather tab (the one that also bears the "Christian Dior" stamp), or in an interior pocket. It indicates the workshop and the manufacturing period.
📅 How to Read the Dior Date Code
| Period | Format & Reading |
|---|---|
| Vintage (before ~2000) | Code often absent or very short; dated by model and hardware. |
| 2000s–2010s | Alphanumeric code: 2 letters (workshop) + numbers. E.g.: MC 1017. |
| ~2010–2021 | Numeric and letter format where the first two digits often indicate the year (e.g.: a code starting with "17" → 2017). |
| Since 2021 | Invisible NFC chip integrated into the lining, gradually replacing the visible code. |
8The Card, Dust Bag, and Consistency
The bag is usually accompanied by an authenticity card, a thick flocked fabric dust bag marked "Christian Dior," and sometimes a removable shoulder strap. The quality of these accessories (printing, fabric, finishes) is also telling.
The final expert reflex: check the overall consistency. Do the model, leather type, hardware color, stamp, and date code belong to the same era? When even one detail doesn't match, the whole item is suspect.
👜 Guide: Lady Dior Sizes
| Size | Approx. Width | Use |
|---|---|---|
| Micro | ~12 cm | Mini bag / evening |
| Mini | ~17 cm | Very popular, worn cross-body |
| Small | ~20 cm | The most versatile |
| Medium | ~24 cm | Iconic classic size |
| Large | ~32 cm | Tote / day |
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is the date code on a Lady Dior bag?
The date code is usually stamped on the back of the interior leather tab—the one that also bears the "Christian Dior" stamp—or in an interior pocket. It indicates the workshop and manufacturing period. Since 2021, an invisible NFC chip integrated into the lining has gradually replaced the visible code.
How do you read the date code on a Lady Dior bag?
In the 2000s–2010s, the code is alphanumeric: 2 letters for the workshop followed by numbers. Around 2010–2021, the first two digits often indicate the year (a code starting with "17" corresponds to 2017). These benchmarks remain indicative, as the Dior system is less publicly standardized.
What is Dior Cannage?
Cannage is Dior's signature diamond-patterned quilting, inspired by the Napoleon III chairs on which guests sat at Christian Dior fashion shows. On an authentic bag, the diamonds are regular, generously puffed, aligned, and continue seamlessly across the side seams.
What are the sizes of the Lady Dior bag?
The Lady Dior comes in five main sizes: Micro (~12 cm), Mini (~17 cm, worn cross-body), Small (~20 cm, the most versatile), Medium (~24 cm, the iconic classic size), and Large (~32 cm, in a tote version for daily use).
Where are Lady Dior bags made?
The interior stamp reads "Christian Dior" followed by "MADE IN ITALY"; older pieces may bear "MADE IN FRANCE". The color of the stamp should match the bag's hardware (gold with gold, silver with palladium).
